Crop factor calculator
See what your lens looks like on your sensor, or work backwards to the lens that matches a full-frame look. Covers full frame, APS-C, Micro Four Thirds, medium format and compacts.
Common cameras and their crop factors
Every figure is computed the same way the calculator does it: the full-frame diagonal (43.27mm) divided by the sensor's own diagonal, so the table and the tool always agree.
| Sensor format | Crop factor | Example bodies |
|---|---|---|
| Medium Format43.8 × 32.9mm | 0.79× | Fujifilm GFX100 II, Fujifilm GFX100S II, Hasselblad X2D 100C |
| Full Frame36 × 24mm | 1.00× | Sony α7 IV / α7R V / α1 II, Canon EOS R5 Mark II / R6 Mark II / R1, Nikon Z6 III / Z8 / Z9, Panasonic Lumix S5 II |
| APS-H27.9 × 18.6mm | 1.29× | Canon EOS-1D Mark III, Canon EOS-1D Mark IV |
| APS-C23.5 × 15.6mm | 1.53× | Fujifilm X-T5 / X-H2S / X100VI, Sony α6700 / ZV-E10 II / FX30, Nikon Z50 II / Zfc / Z30 |
| APS-C (Canon)22.3 × 14.9mm | 1.61× | Canon EOS R7, Canon EOS R10, Canon EOS R50 |
| Micro Four Thirds17.3 × 13mm | 2.00× | OM System OM-1 Mark II, Panasonic Lumix GH7, OM System OM-5 |
| 1-inch13.2 × 8.8mm | 2.73× | Sony RX100 VII, Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark III |
| 2/3"8.8 × 6.6mm | 3.93× | Fujifilm X10 / X20 / X30 |
| 1/1.7"7.44 × 5.58mm | 4.65× | Canon PowerShot G12 / G15 / G16, Pentax Q7 |
| 1/2.3"6.17 × 4.55mm | 5.64× | Nikon Coolpix P1000, Canon PowerShot SX740 HS |
By brand
- Canon
- Full-frame: 1.00× · APS-C: 1.61× · APS-H: 1.29× (older pro bodies)
- Nikon
- Full-frame (FX): 1.00× · APS-C (DX): 1.53×
- Sony
- Full-frame: 1.00× · APS-C: 1.53× · 1-inch (RX100): 2.73×
- Fujifilm
- Medium format (GFX): 0.79× · APS-C (X-mount): 1.53×
- OM System / Panasonic
- Micro Four Thirds: 2.00× · Panasonic full-frame (S): 1.00×
- Pentax / Ricoh
- Full-frame (K-1): 1.00× · APS-C (K-3): 1.53×
How crop factor actually works
Crop factor is the ratio between a 35mm reference frame (36×24mm) and your camera's sensor, measured corner to corner. A smaller sensor captures a narrower slice of what a lens projects, so the image looks more tightly framed. Divide the full-frame diagonal, 43.27mm, by your sensor's diagonal and you have it. Micro Four Thirds measures 17.3×13mm, a 21.64mm diagonal, so 43.27 ÷ 21.64 = 2.00×.
Focal length (field of view)
Crop factor multiplies the apparent focal length. A 50mm lens on APS-C (1.53×) frames like a 77mm would on full-frame. The lens itself hasn't changed; you're just seeing a smaller patch of its image circle. Perspective stays the same, since that's a function of subject distance.
Aperture and depth of field
Aperture matters in two ways. For exposure, f/2.8 is f/2.8 on any sensor: same shutter, same ISO, same brightness. For depth of field and background blur, a smaller sensor at the same aperture gives a deeper DoF. f/2.8 on APS-C looks roughly like f/4.3 on full-frame, which is the "equivalent aperture" number this calculator shows.
ISO and exposure: a common myth
Crop factor does not change your exposure, and it does not multiply ISO. f/4 at 1/200s at ISO 400 produces the same brightness on full-frame, APS-C, or Micro Four Thirds. What does differ is the total light collected across the whole frame, which is why larger sensors tend to have cleaner high-ISO files. That's a noise question, not an exposure one.
Working backwards to a lens
Switch the calculator to I want this look and it runs in reverse: name the full-frame focal length and aperture you're after, and it tells you what to actually mount on your body. Chasing an 85mm f/1.8 portrait look on APS-C? That's a 56mm at f/1.2. Handy before you spend money.